Tile Calculator
Estimate tiles, boxes, adhesive and grout from the floor area or room dimensions.
Tile Quantity Calculator
Work out how many tiles, boxes, bags of adhesive and tubes of grout one room needs. This is a quantity estimator only: no tiles are sold here and no brand is recommended.
Room and materials
Auto: straight 5%, offset 8%, diagonal 12%
Every change recalculates at once. There is no submit button.
Estimated quantities
Estimates only, with no cutting-plan optimisation. Ask the tiler to check the figures against the actual tile layout before ordering.
Auxiliary materials
| Item | Quantity | Basis |
|---|---|---|
| Grout (400 ml tube) | — | Joint length = area × (1/tile length + 1/tile width); one tube covers about 12 m. |
| Tile levelers / spacers | — | 8 per m², rounded up to the nearest 50. |
| Corner trim | Measure on site | Buy by the actual external-corner length; common pieces are 2.4 m. |
Why waste is not always 5%
Waste comes from cuts. The more edges, angles, pipes and doorways a room has, the more of each tile is thrown away. The percentages below are starting points, not fixed rules.
Fewest cuts: only the border row and the door opening need trimming. Offcuts can often be reused along the same wall.
Every other row is shifted by half a tile, so both ends of a row need a cut and the two offcuts rarely fit the next row.
All four sides become diagonal cuts, and the triangular offcuts are almost unusable. Small rooms laid diagonally often reach 15%.
Pipes, columns, door frames and a floor drain all add cuts. Use the net area, then add waste by the number of obstacles rather than by habit.
A 750 × 1500 tile costs more, and one wrong cut wastes a whole piece. Large-format diagonal lay can exceed 15%.
The figure used above is only a purchasing allowance. The real cutting plan should be drawn by the tiler from the on-site measurements.
How to choose among the six sizes
Size decides the look, the number of joints and the labour. Compare the space first, then choose the surface.
| Size (mm) | Where it fits | Visual effect | Installation | Price band |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 600 × 600 | Kitchens, bathrooms, small flats | Neat and familiar; many joints make a room feel smaller | Low | Low |
| 800 × 800 | Living rooms, dining rooms, most shared spaces | Balanced and calm; the default choice for many homes | Low to medium | Medium |
| 750 × 1500 | Large living areas, open-plan spaces, feature walls | Few joints and a strong sense of extension | High: two people to lift, very flat substrate needed | High |
| 300 × 600 | Bathroom and kitchen walls | Laid upright it makes walls look taller | Low | Low to medium |
| 400 × 800 | Bathrooms and kitchens, wall and floor in one tone | More continuous than 300 × 600 without the weight of a large tile | Medium | Medium |
| 200 × 200 | Balconies, entryways, retro or patterned schemes | Dense and decorative; the joints become part of the pattern | High: many joints, slow grouting | Low |
Five common mistakes
- Buying wall tiles by the floor area
Wall and floor areas are calculated separately. A bathroom wall is often 1.5 to 2 times its floor area once the shower and the doorway are counted. - Using 3% waste
Three percent only suits a plain rectangular room with large tiles and no obstacles. Straight lay starts at 5%, and diagonal lay at 12%. - Leaving no joint on large tiles
Large tiles also need 1.5 to 2 mm joints. Movement and an uneven substrate will otherwise crack tiles or push them up. - Mixing different batches
The same model from two batches can differ in tone. Buy the whole quantity at once and keep one extra box for later repairs. - No slope in the bathroom
The shower area needs a 1 to 2% fall to the drain. The larger the floor tile, the harder the slope is to form, so plan the drain and the tile layout together.